Starvation State Park

•August 1, 2009 • 3 Comments

I sure hope they never change the name…
(see California “dried plums”, High Sierra Classic (formerly Markleeville Death Ride…and other tampered-with monikers).

Missed this second day into Utah, and all agreed I was tactically brilliant to lie around in the van hacking up sputum instead of pedaling the too-narrow shoulder of Route 40…with those daunting “rumble strips” which awaken truckers who drift, but which deliver an unwanted colonic to the swervesome riders that veer  off the three-inch wide strip of shoulder NOT imprinted with the rectanguloform ‘safety feature’.

Funny, you can hear the truck roar over them either next to you, or three miles away…even that distance in the clear desert air carries that drone deep into remote camps.

When I asked if I might sleep in the 25- foot WE LIKE BIKE moving truck (dust was swirling around–I had been offered use of a tent, but declined  when I tested it. It was in bright sunlight and my ears were battered by the  snap of un-taut nylon) “Tour Director” Foster said ‘nope’.
“Why, pray tell?”

“Because I say so!”

Poor Foster. He and his brother cling to whatever authority they can, and if this old bat reminds them of a tight-assed third grade teacher that humiliated them in school, then “no” is a perfectly reasonable revenge.
I will no longer trouble him with my special needs.*

When he asked why–“unlike  every other person on the tour“–I didn’t understand his edicts…I replied simply: “I’m stupid”.

When he argued that I couldn’t form a sentence if I were stupid, but why when I had all the chances in the world to buy a tent, didn’t I buy a tent?
(He’s made it clear he and bro are Seventh Day Adventists, so swear words are off limits. Amazing how shame and derogation can be carried sans epithet, all in the tone and the phrasing!)

“Because I’m already intense” I replied, and set to putting my sleeping pad on the dusty (but clean) desert floor, a short walk from the wind-whipped reservoir that surely was NOT there when the white invaders penetrated these stunning deserts.

Because I would have had to ask for it, I didn’t bother with a tarp. Just my (aptly named) Calamity Jane sleeping bag (w/broken zipper) and that all-important Cascade Designs (THANKS GUYS!!!!)  orange pad of plushness…

Saw a dozen shooting stars I’d-a missed had I gotten my way…Pleiades meteorite shower  about to begin….

Life is good, even if you have special needs….

*Monday morning, in Pittsburgh, I happened to ask him, after all the instructions and route sheets (which never had destination hotel names, or campsite names ) where we would be staying that night, he chewed both sides of me up (see bear+salt, previous blog), excoriating me in front of all the riders (who shuffled nervously) because I ‘always had to be special’.

(Note: you rider/readers that really know me really know that I DO think I’m special. Why in the hell are you reading my flipping posts if I’m not special to all 258 of you? HUH????
Oh, sorry. Guess I’m still a little touchy about being roasted.

Screamboat Strings

•July 31, 2009 • 3 Comments

Rode a very long and quiet (solo!) 90 miles from Fraser to Steamboat Springs, which has become mini-Aspen since I saw it in 1984.

My ride down Rabbit Ears pass was more thrilling than I wanted: the bike shimmied like a wet dog and almost flung me off…luckily I somehow regained control in about uh, a minute? a lifetime? I was doing about forty, and had visions of being scraped off the road, flat as a very dead raccoon…  Fate smiled, an’ I  braked the remaining 6 miles (sob!) downhill in a ferocious hot headwind.
My first stop: Kent Ericksen’s custom bike atelier at 1136 Yampa. It was a thrill to see a friendly face I hadn’t seen in decades…he suggested that next time (I hope there will be no more shimmy!) to put a knee into the top tube…

Katie Lindquist, his RAAM-ridin’ wife met me at their driveway six miles (vertical) out of town, near Strawb. Hot Spgs…”Do you like halibut?” she asked. And I watched her slice radishes, bitter greens and snow peas from their garden, plus we feasted on their early potatoes. Heaven washed down with Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.

In the course of story telling it dawned on me that I know other Steamboatfolk: Chris Moore, Kent’s chief welder, is longtime WOMBAT Lisa Chapaitis Moore’s honey! Connected w/her, and then with Kat Fitzsimmons, easily one of the most fun pro riders I ever had the privilege to call a colleague. She met us at the driveway and we pedaled into town at about forty mph, they on their fine mtn bikes, me on my cleverbacon.

Outside, during breakfast, Katie and I watched a mama moose foraging with her gangly cub (kitten? colt? bairn?) nearby.  Amazing. At this (handmade, off-the-grid, Kent built every stick of it) place you put away the bikes not because of rain, but because bears chew up the salt-encrusted saddles..

ONce in town, I swung by Winona’s, and  grabbed about eight riders who “wanted to go to Moots”. They apparently didn’t realize that the founder had sold the brand, and I KNEW they would love Kent’s shop, with journeyman Bo and pros Chad and Chris slaving away at the titanium welding jigs….they were speechless for about a minute , looking all around, and Alex whispered to me , “This is exactly what I want to be doing! Exactly!”

I whispered back “What about that urban planning/bicycle policy making dream of yours back on the Katy Trail?”
It was a good forty five minute q&a tour, and I bet that Bo had to haul out the saliva mop when we finally cleared out…

.

Would someone tell me this is not all just a dream?

Another Interview

•July 26, 2009 • 1 Comment

[YouTube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwRa0FAor9c]

Images from the Road

•July 24, 2009 • 3 Comments

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Missouri Loves Company

•July 21, 2009 • 1 Comment

Friday I rode with the Breakfast Club/Crew, as is my wont. Accent on the enjoyment, and the food.

We stopped in Lexington MO, for well-made sandwiches and cofffee better than any thus far (sez Jon).  The amazing thing  about the town was : stunning historical architecture (soak it up, J.P.– it will be gone by Denver) so good that I practically hit a pedestrian as I rubbernecked Yet Another 1860 brick home. One of the owners of Enigma Rarities tea/art shop told me she’d lived in Middlebury Vt prior to Lexington, and that she was starting over in this historic–and affordable–prairie town.   Her daughter was selling flowers, and team B.C. purchased a fistful of sunflowers for my handlebars.

I (heart)  youse guyz.

It was so damp out that all three layers of my clothes (cotton tee, pink cotton longsleeve, and nylon jersey, black) were drenched and little air evap. made my heart race toward heat stroke when I might have been smart to risk sunburn…It was great to chill in a proper tea room. Shame that I didn’t check my profanity at the door. More than once I found my self letting fly with a completely unwarranted ” @#)$*#!” to the chagrin of my mates.

I’m a bowl in a china shop, tis true.

Saturday and Sunday were unseasonably NON HUMID days…Brilliant blue skies, rolling curvaceous furrows straight outa Thos.. Hart Benton’s paintings.

Teamed up w/ Bryan R. (he steered us onto beloved “Katy” trail) and Adrianna T.M., faced ninety miles jump-started by a accidental prayer breakfast.  It’s clear that we are in the heart of a sort of bible belt. Churches everywhere.  Should it be a surprise to walk into a coffeeshop and bump into a  a dozen or so overall’d  men at long tables in the Country Cafe of Auburn?  That we were the unwitting attendees to a traveling preacher’s sermon? As we shoveled in the number one combo (three eggs, pancake, two sausage, hashbrowns and coffee) without comment,  he was serving up inspiration with biscuits and gravy to rapt farmers.

Eye contact, the occasional murmured word connected the disparate groups. We were the strangers, and yet we were welcome. That was good  enough. They even said they’d pray for our safety, leaving the salvation up to us .

Back on the road, a stiff breeze clobbered us from the North.  Two tactics helped:

1) two minute intervals at the front, while the other(s) rest in the slip stream, and

2) every twenty miles, rest in the shade under a good tree.

Seems reasonable, right?

But who stops long enough to gaze up into the triple-cross spoke pattern of a mature maple canopy?  (with music by unknown avian composer)?

Legs propped on trunk, splayed in the impecably mown grass of yet another tidy home, we resemble drying carcasses.

Saturday was hella windy, between St. Joseph MO (run-down river town, felt like there was nearly no one home) and Auburn.  Yet another tea shop (the Duck Inn) sustained us  even though they technically were closed at one p.m.  Three others (Irish, Danish and Italian–no joke) on auto-tour also benefitted from the ladies of Craig Missouri’s hospitality.

Sunday easy breezing into Council Bluffs Iowa, with lunch in Omaha.
We picked the Pollo Nuevo. As soon as Bryan opend the door our ears were scorched w/Mexican music, and somehow we got our order across, sat for a supremely tasty plate of the real deal (fresh cilantro chopped in the kitchen, real frijoles, great sopas and burrito) and the leering men I’d tried to ignore began to raise their voices. Bryan told me the men’s room had holes punched in the soft sheetrock. Right behind us, an Unhappy Customer called his friend a ‘pendejo’ and picked up a chair. We finished fast,  got out.

Then today–a brilliant pink dawn and scary bruised blue clouds in the west. Even though I’d carefully squeezed guava jam into a baggy, and baggied up my camera, cue sheet, and sweater,  I felt unready. A soaking rain might ruin this ride toward Lincoln Nebraska, home of Monkeywrench Cycles. Farmers love these steady rains, but I might be too wet to go the neccessary six miles off-piste.  At the last second I heaved the bike into the big truck, and several riders followed suit.

The rain hit hard, then stopped, making me rue not riding. Oh, good, it resumed later…
But no, it was great to just saunter into Nate Woodman’s unique scene in the precise center of the USA (see  the plaque on the intersection of  O and 13th streets).

Actually he’s on P, but damn, who’s counting.
I jumped ship from the tour for a day and happily distracted customers and Nate and Eric who hold down the fort. A few 42 team members perused the scene and picked up the things they needed (glad Justen got the killer jersey!) then the shop was all mine.
Turns out there have been very well documented rides out of Lincoln.  Rapha had a national tour and filmed a clip.
We rode home for a small get together where I met Nate’s neighbors: Paul to the west , newlyweds Frankie and Jesse to the east…

Who among us gets to live sandwiched between friends?  I mean, other than you college students?
As Nate put it, “we might not have the most interesting stuff in the world here, but it’s sure good enough to stick around and enjoy”.

Discovering the Katy Trail

•July 17, 2009 • 4 Comments

image by Scott Thiessen

Image/video by Scott Thiessen

“Katy” is the 225 mile long jewel of a rail-trail, the first created in the country, and a major tourist destination for Missourians for the last thirty years. Yet I had never heard of it (hey, I’m not om-knee-scient). It was flyin’ Bryan–born and raised in St. Louis who steered a few of us ‘off piste’ and into the shady Katy wonderland. He’d always wanted to ride it since he discovered bikes as a BMXr of note…
We Northern Route riders know that this ride, being the first of its sort, is all about working through glitches. Our biggest asset is the 21 rider’s minds, opinions and insight.

So this blog is dedicated to the spirit of the trip, which is after all celebrating bicycle culture in its myriad man (and woman)ifestations.

Ah, but Katy. K.T. as in Kansas-Texas rail line…she’s a beaut. She winds along the big Muddy Missouri, with old train depots still kind of implied, and all those villages in the once-great riverboat/locomotive e from the ‘westward expansion’.

I thought longingly about the absent prairie grasses, the extirpated indigenous residents, and of course about the disappearance of trains from our daily lives. But it’s impossible to be sad for long on a bike (to quote a velosopher/scientist of note) so it was back to appreciating the chance to get away from the tarmac, hear the crunch of grit under the road tires and the chatting of the ten-odd riders spinning not so very speedily along.

Day one on “Katy” was sunny, hot in the few un shaded cornfield zones but it was easy to get back to shade, and I lay ON the trail because the surface was cooler than me. Try that on US hwy 45…

No dead animals. Two hop-toads, all kinds of bird life, voices set at jungle levels, and all that greenery like topiary of the gods, draped exuberantly over anything vertical, forming green standing grizzly bears and not-scary veet ghosts…it was all just a ten hour hallucination. I really can’t believe it happened, but there were those ten other people who came, saw, and were smitten too.

Just in time, after the first hour or so (and our second hour on the bike) we pulled into a tiwn with a bike shop, ice cream store, and tavern with genuine hell’s angel type waitresses. A big bonus. We didn’t leave for an hour.

It goes on and on, and I’ll try to add to this but it’s four a.m. and I should be sleeping….I love you, K.T. I don’t mind that you’re so flat.

Tales from the Road

•July 17, 2009 • 1 Comment

[YouTube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiD12KQgzDo]

This is me interviewed before the GREAT Adventure.

Other people are showing up on You Tube too.

Search for North Rider interview or South Rider interview.

My interview was done in NYC by Natie and Eliza, a young pair of filmmakers.

Others were done after a few days riding. I hope I get the chance to do another…

Kansas City

•July 17, 2009 • 3 Comments

First:  Kansas City is in Missouri.

There might be a Kansas City Kansas, but there is no way it can be as cool as this town.

Rode with (flyin’) Bryan Reckamp.

That meant:  stops. No rushin’ roulette!

Barely out of the gate we passed a woman with a RAGBRAI jersey on, and within about a half hour met a gentleman at the tiny “Malta Bend” (town) diner who was her husband. Fred ‘n Jean Long. She’s a long haul rider, 3x cancer victor, and he is her personal sag! WOW!! Lady, please please get yrself a boastcard from ACG? PLEASE? The world needs you badly.

Lunch in Lexington, a town so charming, so historical and so loaded with excellent architecture that I really nearly rode into a couple parked cars and one wrong-way local cyclist…At the Enigma cafe…a proper tea room with super-healthy food. Real shortbread, too.

And so we sprawled around in there, yakking it up with Abbie, one of the two owners, who are going to some day be swamped because that coffee Jon and Bryan had was the best on the trip..and the tea I had was perfect too…a young girl sold me some sunflowers for my handlebars (she’s saving for a bike!) and as we left, a huge gaggle of tourista ladies swarmed in, replacing our sweaty swarm with a perfumed cloud of propriety and patience…

We proceeded onward, just Bry since Jon was on a solo mission today. The itinerary went as follows:

1. ‘We’re stopping to sit under the next tree’…( this was during a hot stretch in field after field after rolling field of experimental “335 t-9” corn). Check.

2. ‘I know  a great place for barbeque, Albert somethingorothers, kinda required eating…’  Check.

3. Obligatory stop at Tastee Freeze–on principle.

4. There’s a cool coffee shop in the art district. Check.

5. ‘oh, yes, there’s a bike shop I like a lot’…

Basically , this was a do-over of a great visit BR did a year and a half ago.

As we pulled up to the bike shop–set wayyyy back off 18th Street in the art district–I read “ACME” on the sign, and he was setting up to take pix of the bike pile welded to a phone pole, and the giant rusted quarple-tandem that is a bike rack..

and I realized that I knew the owner (Sarah Gibson). We’ve been pen pals since…oh, very very long ago. Let’s say 1986, when I first got a computer…no, maybe 1987 when I founded WOMBATS.
I practically flipped, but suddenly I knew I was screwed because, despite our deep and meaningful correspondences…I uh…couldn’t recall her name.

Bry googled around lookin for a clue for a few precious minutes while I tried the A-Z jukebox technique (“A…abby, anne, aurora…no, B …betty, no…C  cindy cathy, oh fuck well then D? E? EFF? FCK ME)
“Aww, let’s just go in and find out.  She’ll forgive me…”

And she was sitting in the garage-door opening, as I was thinking “please be open please be open” after all it WAS around 5 pm…

The shop is unique, and needs to be written up for a magazine…which? Why, Karen Brook’s latest baby, the spin-off from Dirt Rag.  Urban Biker, or something –sorry Kar, forgot the title.  Sarah and I just blabbed non stop an’ I jumped around the store admiring the BIKES SHE BUILT HERSELF (insert picture here some day) with the neat-o plasma cut steel head badges –picture a teardrop shaped peace symbol.

But we had to leave. We gave her the address of the “event” (42 below hosts little bashes at the big city centers, we all work like mad to promote the great brand, share t-shirts with the assorted bikers who come..) –Grand Falloon it’s called.

And lo, at least a dozen local biker types came! Michelle the seamstress for whom ‘good taste is other people’s problem’, Corrina, the messenger/social worker, and Jones, who generously shared his beer with me until the food was unveiled…oh, yes and F.C. who rolls a mean, elegant –with filters, even!

Meet Me In St. Louis

•July 13, 2009 • 8 Comments

We were told that the hundred mile ride from Taylorville, Ill to St. Louis was ‘too hard’ and that we would all get a ride part way to spare us the trubb.

This didn’t sit well with  Andrew Wilhelm, the tri-state jr. track champ (sorry Andy– Rachel ‘outed’ you with some prying on my part), nor with Georgie from Tokyo who is determined to ‘complete’ the ride –as in, no time in the van. Same with Philippe Guillerm the French artist.

I had to go because that particular crew (oh, don’t forget the “greatest bicycle messenger in the known world” Corey from Philly) would be the ultimate bunch to do a century with. I could just sit in the back and file my nails while they did all the work.

We had perfect weather and a pretty decent tail wind the entire five-six hour ride through cornfields and country byways. The routing is either getting better or we’ve just been lucky.
Averaged about 19 mph the whole way and I learned yet again how sore one can get–where it feels that you’re sitting on a knife blade, your crotch wounded from the hourslong pressure, and your legs unable to respond when some fool has to charge up the tiny little freeway overpass (that’s what counts as a hill in  Illinois).

And then, convinced you’re cooked, you shift position, or eat something, and voila! New Woman.

This cycle exhilaration/exhaustion cycle rolled over at least six times today.
We pulled into St Louis never having even seen the others–we got off track , but more likely we also stayed ahead of them since we left at 7 thirty and they all had a leisurely breakfast at the campsite on Taylorville reservoir.

It proved to be a godsend. We pulled in at one thirty under a dark, very low sky. Just after we scooted our bikes into the Marriott Residences on W. Jefferson St (airconditioned to the point of pain, especially to this ol’ wombat who simply prefers ‘natural air’ even if it IS a bit stuffy and humid)  the skies dumped about an acre/ft of water per square meter (how’s that for mixed measurements?) in a deluge befitting an angry deity.

Knowing I hadn’t stolen even as much as a mayonnaise packet in days, I serenely floated up to my room which had only one bed, made tea, drew a bath, and pulled the plug on the refrig (too much noise, plus it’s empty frgwdssake), hid the TV remote in the dishwasher since some fools have to have the TV on even when they’re not watching it. And of course turned off the thermostat and opened the windows to their 2 inch limit.

I’d worry about the implications of that one huge bed for my three roommates later when they came in hours later, soaked through, and furious that there seemed to be only one kingsize bed.

The wet rodents got their own room (miracle!) and all of us scrambled downtown to get into the City Museum, the wildest, weirdest museum you can imagine–the brainchild of a guy (Bryan Reckamp told me but I forgot) who got lots of help to do over a seven story warehouse as a maze/bas-relief/dinosaur sculptural wonderland, where you crawl into everything, climb over, under, and even slide down (seven stories, whee!). I am sure language cannot do it justice.  Bryan thanks for taking us there. And thanks for sharing your family with us too, by the way. I especially liked the history bit, the ‘losers’ of the Prussian war for democracy in 1846 or something. 
We also had a very fun event at the Fink Plamingo, a chic bowling alley close by…met all the Javelin people and had a blast sampling the best food of all the 42 below events thus far.
When I asked Bryan what St. Louis food was most well-known he said fried ravioli. I refuse to believe it.

Two days prior, I rode sweep with Andrew from  “I forget-the-hell-where” to Champaign/Urbana. 

Mostly stayed on track but even then got lost, discovered “Chanute Field” where Charlie’s mom Carol met Bruce Cunningham at a dance.   They married while Bruce was still a fighter pilot and she got to see what single motherhood ala military wife is like. Luckily she had great parents to help out.

 Carolwent to the Uni. of Illinois there in 1943 or so, majored in French and Lit (hmm …French Lit was my major too.

Maybe men really do marry their mom?

Carol, no offence but this also means you’re a (well-disguised) lunatic..

So I got to trot thru Cunninghistory (even rode thru Hammond Ill., the spot BC fled as a seventeen yr old future airman) while getting lost.
Our hotel was so far from town I actually hitchhiked in and was picked up by the very generous local  (Cindy OConnell by name) who first took me to the bike shop (Durst Bicycles) to fix my Shimano clickpedals. Instead, they GENEROUSLY GAVE ME A USED PAIR… THANK YOU JOE!!! JOSH!!! Et al..

Then she toured me thru the campus so I could fire off some pix to Carol, and I forced her to let me treat her to lunch (‘let the record show that Jacquie has bought food a time or two in the year 2009) at Fiesta, a presumed non-chain (I’m allergic to franchises, along with all my other weird allergies like work, responsibility, and decorum).

It’s late. I’ll have to brag about being “team support” for a pair of young racers at the Tour De Champaign another time. But I might forget, so I will say that instead of riding from Champ/to Taylorville, three of us rolled into town for a race. I met people from the bike advocacy group who had the most magnificent articulated bus painted neon yellow with blue/purple silhouettes of about eight different riders, each a real person–a paralyzed war vet, a pregnant mom with little girl behind on a trail-a-bike, a tricycle recumbent woman who’d been dain bramaged but refused to be told ‘no more cycling’, and yr basic  commuter dude, etc… incredible.  The artist, Joyce er…um…(help!) Mast (I FOUND SOMETHING FOR ONCE IN MY PURSE!) is a sixty-plus woman of regal –no shit, a truly noble presence–carriage, told me all about what inspired the artwrk, and how she’d taken her daughter every year for 18 years on bike tours…and I mustn’t forget the lovely man next to her, damn it, what was your name? Dave? Mike? Ugh. Well, if you write me I will write back.
All these lovely people are melding into one giant benign Presence, the “One” that the sufis are always talking about.

SIgh. Life is wonderful.

Chdot, can you stick some links in here, maybe some maps, scheme up a graphic for me? I wish I could send pix…
Yrs, truly. The mind of the wombat.

Detroit Cityfest–Che Casino!

•July 5, 2009 • 4 Comments

Here at the Greektown Casino and hotel, it’s a little slow. I managed to miss any fireworks, still haven’t looked into the casino (this word means ‘mess’  in colloquial Italian…i wonder what it means in Greek).

Rather than pedal into the city, I took a rest day. The previous day, July 3, we’d ridden 90 miles (80 was what we were spozta do, but as we’re learning, we get ‘bonus miles’ thanks to spontaneous changes in the route).  THAT day was splendid. It came on the tail of a week’s worth of sharing the road with eighteen wheelers and Motorists With Attitude.

I had gotten to the point of feeling I was risking my life a dozen times a day, even though (as one of the road tour directors reminded me ) it is dangerous to ride a bike, and it is my job this summer, maybe not to fret about the hazard factor so much.

With about ten others, I watched from the support van–with envy–as the riders skimmed across the flatlands, looking  like a team. Riding like a team. Having a blast. I didn’t even try having a beer with them when they arrived happily spent–cruising the town for a decent beer and a huge plate of food.

So yes I am naturally chicken, and I like knowing what is coming. I have given  up asking what the sequence of towns we’re riding through is… and just make do with those ‘cue sheets’ with their

“left .1 mile , right 21 miles.. right .5 miles, etc… ” directions, which let us down when they fail to have the mileage correct.  Even the aggregate mile total is not provided.

I can do the math myself, and buy a state atlas if  I’m that addicted to place names…. Speaking of which, after the goldsprints at city fest (I lost to Andrew Wilhelm, the artist/trackie, an honor to even try stationary bike racing w/him) we were escorted by Jack VanDyke, Alex from the Hub of Detroit, his sweetie to Cafe D’mongo (video), a really cool little dive a few blocks away from the hotel.

Larry D’mongo read my palm, saying what every person wants to hear: you are special, way ahead of your time etc, and I floated back to the hotel to sleep away the vodka and lethargy of a rideless stage.